How to Make Aleppo Mortadella
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Aleppo Mortadella is a meaty and nutty Armenian-inspired dish from Aleppo, Syria. It’s commonly found in fridges throughout the city, waiting to be sandwiched between bread, Arabic pickles, and mayo. Very lean ground beef is combined with breadcrumbs, garlic, eggs, cloves, Arabic 7 spices, and salt before being filled with pistachio kernels. It’s then formed into a cylinder, wrapped in plastic wrap, and frozen for a few hours to make sure it keeps its shape. It’s then poached in a tangy and flavorful liquid of water, apple cider vinegar, bay leaves, and whole cloves. It’s nutritious, versatile, and so delicious.
History
Aleppo saw an onslaught of Armenian refugees in the early 20th century when they fled neighboring Turkey during the genocide by the Ottomans. Tens of thousands of Armenians were forced out of their villages and taken to the desert near Syria where they were killed and buried in mass graves. Many who fled found themselves in northern Syria in Aleppo and surrounding villages. With them, they brought their cuisine. Syrians were introduced to this version of mortadella and other cold meats (basterma, sujuk).
Aleppo mortadella should not be confused with the Italian kind, which is cured and made with pork. Aleppo mortadella, on the other hand, uses very lean ground beef, is poached and resembles more of a meat loaf.
It’s typically eaten as part of a mezze spread, and leftovers can be made into sandwiches for lunch. It’s also popular around Ramadan for the pre-dawn meal (suhoor).
Ingredients
Habra — Habra is super lean (0% fat) ground beef or lamb that makes the foundation of mortadella. If you ask a Halal butcher for habra, they will know what you’re looking for. If you’re talking to a Western butcher, ask for the inside round with all of the fat removed. It will then be ground finely, preferably with fresh blades, so it’s not contaminated with other fat and meat.
Ka’ak — Ka’ak comes in different textures. What you’re looking for is the hard breadstick, without any sesame seeds. It’s somewhat sweet and is typically seasoned with mahlab, which is the pit of a specific cherry used in baked goods, and it adds a nice flavor. Ka’ak also acts as a binding agent, so if you can’t find any, regular breadsticks or breadcrumbs will work.
Egg — Egg acts as another binding agent.
Garlic — Pounded garlic adds a really nice flavor to the meat.
Cloves — Cloves are one of my favorite warm spices, and I don’t think it nearly gets used enough in modern-day cooking. You’ll use ground cloves in the meat and whole cloves in the poaching liquid.
Arabic 7 Spices — In the Middle East, families traditionally make their own seasoning mixes. For meat, it’s usually a combination of all spice, black pepper, paprika, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, ginger, and/or fenugreek. You can either buy some pre mixed, or prepare your own like I did here.
Pistachios — Pistachios are such a signature variety to Aleppo. It’s used for snacking, in sweets, as a garnish, and so much more. I love pistachios for their natural sweetness and color. Shelled, raw pistachios fill the inside of the mortadella cylinders, which add a nice pop.
Apple cider vinegar — ACV adds a nice fruity tanginess to the poaching liquid, whose flavors infuse in the meat.
Bay leaves — Bay leaves in the poaching liquid add some earthiness.
Method
Start by crushing the ka’ak in the food processor until it’s a fine powder. Combine the habra, egg, ka’ak garlic, cloves, Arabic 7 spices, and salt in the same food processor until a paste forms.
Prepare your work area with a long sheet of plastic wrap (about 20-30 inches) going across your counter. Have a bowl of ice water and the pistachios handy. Take a large palm full, about the size of 2 fists pressed together, and after dipping your hands into the bowl of ice water, flatten out into a rectangle about 10 inches long and 1/4 inch thick. Scatter a generous amount of pistachios in the middle, and roll it up tight like a sushi roll. Wet your hands in the ice water again and smoothen out the surface. Scrunch in the edges and then smooth again.
Wrap in the plastic wrap. Twist the edges up, trying to take out as much air as possible, and tie them in tight knots. Transfer to a small baking sheet, and pierce twice with a fork.
Repeat with the other piece, and transfer the baking tray to the freezer, and allow to set for an hour or so.
Once the mortadella has set, combine the poaching liquid ingredients in a large pot. Unwrap the mortadella tubes and simmer them for about an hour, covered. Allow to rest for about 30-60 minutes, and then pan sear in 1-2 tbsp of ghee until golden, about 1 minute each side.
Slice and serve as mezze with pita bread, or use in sandwiches with mustard, mayo, and pickles.
I hope you give this recipe a try! If you do, don’t forget to put it in the comments so everyone knows how it worked out. I also love to see your creations! You can tag me on social media at #omayahcooks, @omayah.atassi on Instagram, @omayahcooks on Pinterest, and @omayahatassiphoto on Facebook.
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*This post was originally published on January 17, 2019. Recipe, photos, and description have been updated.
Aleppo Mortadella
Ingredients
- 500 g/1 lb habra
- 1 egg
- 1 c crushed plain ka'ak (from about 3-4 pieces) or 1 c breadcrumbs
- 1 tbsp minced garlic
- 1 tsp Arabic 7 spices
- 1/2 tsp ground cloves
- 1 tsp salt (to taste)
- 2 c raw pistachio kernels
- 2 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil
- 1 L/4 c water
- 118 mL/1/2 c apple cider vinegar
- 1 tbsp salt
- 2 bay leaves
- 4-5 whole cloves
- 1 cinnamon stick
Instructions
- First, create a fine powder with the ka'ak by crushing it in the food processor. Measure 1 c and set the rest aside for another use. Alternatively, use 1 c breadcrumbs.
- Add the habra, garlic, Arabic 7 spices, cloves, and salt to the food processor, and process until a paste forms.
- Prepare a bowl of ice water. Transfer the habra and ka'ak mixture to a large bowl and combine with the egg, wetting your hands with the ice water.
- Measure 2 pieces of plastic wrap about 30 inches long with the long side towards you. Prepare your work station with the bowl of ice water and the pistachios.
- Separate the habra mixture into 2 even pieces. Dip your hands in the ice water and flatten out 1 of the pieces onto a piece of plastic wrap into a rectangle, about 10 inches long and 1/4 inch thick.
- Scatter a handful or two of pistachios along the center. You want to be generous here.
- Roll the habra mixture over the pistachios tightly with your hands, keeping the plastic wrap where it is, forming a cylinder. Once you've rolled it, dip your hands in the ice water, and smoothen out all the sides. Take your hands on either side and sort of "tighten" the roll by pushing the edges towards the middle once or twice, which will make it look a little shorter and pudgier. Dip your hands in ice water again and smooth and form to a long shape.
- Roll the plastic wrap on top of the mortadella. Twist the edges one at a time, as if you're forming a sausage link. Take out as much air as possible, and tie each edge into a knot. Pierce twice with a fork and transfer to a small baking sheet.
- Repeat with the other piece of habra mixture and transfer the baking sheet to the freezer to set for about an hour.
- Once the mortadella has set, remove from the freezer and combine the poaching liquid ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil. (You may need to add more water in order to cover the mortadella. It depends on your pot. Make sure you add more of the remaining ingredients in the same ratio listed above).
- Remove the mortadella from the plastic wrap and gently place in the poaching liquid. Bring back up to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 1 hour 15 minutes.
- Gently remove with tongs and rest the mortadella for 30-60 minutes.
- Melt ghee or heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil over high heat. Pan sear the mortadella until golden, about 1 minute each side.
- Slice and serve with sandwich or pita bread, mustard, mayo, and/or pickles.